RC-Hangout

Basically i managed to to get one side frame off, the left side. Got all the wires pulled for all the servos and ESC. Now I am working on his to route the wires for the kbar. At that point I had to stop and get ready for work.

After looking at what I have and the cable lengths my only option as of right now is to put the gyro on the lower frame. Not ideal for working on but I won't have to extand my ESC cable. Since I don't want to cut wires just yet this will work for me. My servo wires are just long enough to reach. Sat is going under the lower fram.e.

Make sure you mount it were you can get to the usb port
I have it mounted in the inside frame of the 550. and have it facing down and the usb gose through a whole in the bottom plate

It will be in the back and access should not be a problem. When I get more time I am going to do a bunch of dry fits to make sure. Oh and I have it with the connectors facing forward. I could do upside down with the USB and b.t. module hanging out of the center of the bottom plate. Will see how it goes when I have more time.

well be careful with that BT mod the mini kbar has its one set up ask me how I know
I have the RJX BT md for the mini vbar but dont use it I opend it up to see if I could make it work with the Ikon and its not the same
the Kbar works very well I have not had to adjust it at the field So the BT mod is just not important to me
Also you cant leave it plugged in wile flying from what I read

I have a blue tooth adapter from the ZYX-S. Not sure if its the same either. I maybe needed some field adjustments. I will be flying and tuning with a guy who knows the gyro well. So it could help.

I found Mr. Mel. But my software still won't go past the splash screen.

Here are my options and what didn't work. The images with the gyro pushed forward towards the cog did not work. The gyro was inverted to get access through the frame. Once the battery was slid in the gyro got pushed free of the adhesive pads. I have to relocate my double sided 3m tape.


The set of pics with the gyro push back away from the cog is how I am going to run this. I can still get access to the fbl with USB, its tight but works. Once this is setup I have the feeling its going to be forgotten about.

The final 2 pics are my blue tooth adapter. Good news , wring connector. How lucky for me. Anyhow that's where I am at besides not being able to get the vstabi to launch. I did download from the emailed link from vstabi. I had the gyro plugged in to the lappy and powered up. Still have not be able to get it launched need to Google a solution.

If anyone has the 4 wire servo lead that fits let me know. I think that's all I need to attempt Bluetooth.

WOW your BT MOD looks like the one I need for the Ikon

Its a tarot BT mod. The connector won't fit my setup. I don't have the connector nor a ceimper to make one. I could solder one up with the cable I have. Actually I wouldn't need to solder. I could use a pre ended three wire and seporat one wire out from another. Bam all done. God I hate being at work when this stuff comes to me.

Okay finally got Vstabi to work. My guess on the Java VM was right. Here is what I had to do to get it to work:


* Open the Control Panel
* Go to System
* Go to Advanced Systems Properties
* Then Environment Variables
* In System Variables, click Add
* New Variable Name: _JAVA_OPTIONS
* New Variable Value: -Xmx512M
* Click OK


Now time for bed. I managed to move 33,405 lbs of material last night and I am beat.

Now that I can connect to the software I am now bound to the radio. What is the channel assignment for the vBar.
CH1=AIL CH1=ELE CH1=PIT
CH2=ELE CH2=PIT CH2=AIL
CH3=PIT CH3= AIL CH3=ELE


Not sure what of the three I need to use. I dont think I got that far in the MR. Mel videos yet. I'll take a look and see what he says. Feel free to chime in anyways.

Just follow it step buy step it super easy to set up it tells you what is what

Now the servos are hooked up, wiring is done and set the throttle end points in the esc. Now I understand the the whole throttle travel limits for the esc calibration process. I thought there was something in the castle link for this setup.

For the throttle I started at 100 100 (in the radio) for the limits. Turned on the radio, set full throttle with a linear curve (0-100) then plugged in the flight pack. Waited for the tone lowered the throttle (got no tone) adjust the endpoint till I got the tone. Now my end points are 100 112 (100 being high point 112 being low point).

I got all the way to the servo hook up screen in Vstabi. All my servos, throttle, bec and the Castle Throttle lock are all hooked up. Since this is a small form factor than a 9 channel RX I had to modify the castle throttle lock. Real simple, I simply replace the BEC power lead from the ESC RX output with the red lead from the throttle lock and all works like it should.

Top pic should be how I setup the throttle safety lock. The servo lead on the top is the throttle lead. I have the red wire removed because of the external bec. It its place is the red lead from the throttle safety lock. Works like it should. Key in = ESC not initialized, key out = ESC initialized. This pic is a little neat thing I found. Since I shortened my servo lead to the tail servo it would not reach the RX. I noticed that there is a small notch cut out in the fram to run your wire through. Bonus, now the lead reaches just fine. The big ball of wire in the front is mostly the sat wire. That thing is WAY to long. Time to snip and solder. Once that's done it will look a lot cleaner.

No work dine today. Sucks but it is what it is. All my packs were storaged and needed charged. So I got 2 of my gens ace on charge now. Also I need to get more bearing oil since I can't find my tri flow.

Figured I would do some oiling since its apart.

Just got some trinity royal bearing oil. This should work for my bearings. So I will be oiling while the frame us apart.

I spent almost all of my awake hours on getting thing done on the Gaui. After further review of the crash damage I found a slightly bent boom and replaced the feathering shaft. Went through and oiled almost every bearing in the kit with the new trinity royal oil. I also regreased the thrust bearings in the head and tail blade grips. Now everything is running the way it should.

Got the gyro on the PC and went through the setup wizard. Got everything dialed in based on how it moves on the heli and not the software. I think there is a glitch or something. If I run the Ailerons the way the software says to they are backward. If I reverse the channel the work fine but the software says its backwards.

Got the swash leveled with my PC logger gauge. Went a lot better than the Hobbymate. Set 8 degrees and set the pitch limits to 12 degrees. I checked the vibration analyzer and since its new I don't know what good or bad is. I think All thats left is to finize the tail and things should be golden.

For the tail blade; leading edge left means nose left and leading right mean nose right?

As of right now I can tell a difference with the radio setup. The cyclic servos are showing there smoothness during input commands. They just look so much more smoother. I do have the radio set 11 ms. Really noticeable.

If its backwards to the gyro then the gyro will not work right . try swapping the 2 Ail. and see if that make it the same as the software

On the tail if the slider goes left the nose goes

Got the servos swapped, reset the pitch and all seems well. At least to thus point. My collective is at 11 and still need to set the cyclic pitch.
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Took it out for a test and it wanted to tip left. A set of blades later and it still tips left as collective is applied. I mam guessing the cyclic is the cause. After doing the wizard setup I feel there is still much to do. I did not see

After the servos being backwards and now it wanting to tilt left It sounds like you dont have the mounting correct in the software
Dose the swash correct right when you tilt the heli